Okinawa Ramen Riding

沖縄- Okinawa



I had work on a Saturday down in Okinawa. Of course, I took a few days off to get down there early for some R&R. R&R, isn't that what the military guys say? Seriously, there is a big, scary military presence down in Okinawa. But was I down there for the burgers and Filipino girly bars that line the roads outside the ominous barbed wire fences surrounding our service men? No way, I'm here to eat noodles and ride bikes.



This was my first time to Okinawa, and now I've been to all 47 prefectures of Japan. I think, for the traveler, Okinawa has a lot to offer if you have the time. Apart from the main island and Naha, accounts of amazing seaside villages and tranquility abound. But, I didn't have the time. A quick, two day blast on a rented Kawasaku Z800 would have to do.



But first, airport sushi! The sushi at Terminal 1 is much better than this one at Terminal 2.



A rental from Rental 819, the country-wide bike rental company we know and love. I was thinking of a cruiser, maybe a Honda Shadow 400, but this sporty beast was the same price. How was the ride? Maybe if you are more of a Japanese-sized guy, you'd enjoy it more. That seat felt small, and it was rock hard to boot. But the power to weight was awesome, and the torque was there at any speed. I wonder how it compares to a KTM Duke 690?

Anyways, if you are interested in getting a Z800, make sure you test ride it for a day first. I couldn't do more than 80km before my ass was sore.



Ramen! I hit up 1 ramen shop and 2 sokisoba (Okinawan style noodles) shops this trip. The reviews will be up later at www.ramenadventures.com.



My pension for the night. $40 and I woke up to this view. Not bad, except the Motobu area was completely dead. I managed to find the only friendly looking place to drink on the other side of that bridge.



Okinawan Awomori (泡盛) is prevalent.



The, one full day of riding and sightseeing.



I'd say skip the Okinawa aquarium. Yeah, it is super famous, but apart from the whale sharks, it was kind of small. Actually, I had just recently visited the Atlanta aquarium, which supplanted the Okinawan one as the biggest tank in the world. I think. The Atlanta one had jellyfish and a dolphin show that was more of an off-broadway production.

The above photo is from Okinawa, and below is from Atlanta. I think the same company built the massive acrylic windows.



Almost everything with a sign seems touristy. I veered off the main road to check out a waterfall, but they wanted 500 yen to see it. Further north, a cliff with a view was charging 870 yen for a look. I don't even know what this Okinawa Fruits Land is, but it was another 1000 yen.



Motobu is known as THE place to go for sokisoba, the Okinawan cousin to ramen.



山原そば.



Great soup and noodles. The meat was a little tough, but you can't beat the above bowl for 600 yen.



Another famous spot. きしもと食堂.



Their toppings were amazing, but the noodles were on the soft side. Everyone's a critic!



What a place. The north side had plenty of positively empty roads. I only passed one driver in about an hour, who just so happened to be the drunkest drunk driver I had ever seen in my life. This was at noon on a Friday. I contemplated being a snitch and telling a cop, but there were also no buildings for an hour.



I guess November is the off season. Though it was almost 30 degrees out, I had this resort beach all to myself for the sunset.



And I didn't even get kicked out for my tattoos! Also, what is that guy's ink of? A tribal butterfly crab?



See you again, next time my work sends me down.

Fuku (Fugu) in Yamaguchi

You've heard of fugu, the potentially deadly puffer fish?



Well, in Yamaguchi, the most famous place in Japan for the stuff, they call if fuku, meaning good luck. I always thought it would be pricey (the high end fugu shops in Tokyo cost around $300 a person), but was shocked to see how normal it is down here.



Deep fried fuku for 100 yen. That's just a buck!



The whole Shimonoseki fish market area is great. It might be more into the wholesale thing in the early morning, but at noon it was just shops selling sushi, fried fish, and beers, Mega cheap to boot. And, just a short walk away was a Ferris wheel and helicopter rides.



I ate enough fuku to numb my throat, then headed on to central Yamaguchi, about an hour away.



In any new town in Japan, I always try to find a welcoming bar, then ask them about restaurants and other bars in the area. This funky wine bar, called 和音, was the perfect start. What's that? You are having a Kumamoto wine fair? With complementary raw horse meat?



Solid! The friendly bartender recommended the most popular local izakaya. A few hours wait later and we were dining on local fish and drinking local sake.



If the whale bacon scares you, just wash it down with some fuku infused sake.



And dig into a pot of fuku nabe.



So much fukin fuku.



Random birthday party crash? You bet!



We managed to find the last pieces of Godiva chocolate at the local 7-11, a worthy birthday present.

Yamaguchi, people, make the trek.

Hawaii Food; The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Hawaiian Food Roundup 2015

Spent a few weeks in Hawaii over the holidays, and since Honolulu is a more popular destination for Japanese than many quality places within Japan, I feel it is worthwhile to talk about the food. Most of these shops are featured heavily in Japanese guidebooks, and the lines to get in were often half Japanese.

Food certainly fell into one of three categories. Ono (good), Oh-no (bad), and no-no (ugly).

First the ono.



Acai bowls are always good. Most decent coffee shops have them on the menu. I don't really know what acai is, besides a current health food trend. Ten bucks seems spendy for something that mimicks a bowl of yogurt, but whatever. I spent a lot of time at Island Vintage Coffee and Honolulu Coffee. Both were great.



Oh, and this happened:



Another thing that was pretty much universally good were the burgers. But my favorite by far were at the Diamond Head Market and Grill.



The mushroom burger has a portobello mushroom that is bigger than the bun. Solid.



The BBQ burger is legit as well.



Pancakes and locomoco. Breakfast spots universally serve both pancakes and locomoco. Nope, it makes no sense. These things are on opposite sides of the culinary spectrum, but whatever. Usually someone in your group wants to eat some fruity pancakes and someone wants meat, gravy, and eggs over rice. Win-win.



Bogarts replaced the typical burger with red wine stewed oxtail. Nice breakfast son! Their pancakes are popular with people who want their pancakes to look like this.



I'm not really a pancake guy, but the stack at Yogur Story was mad good. The purple is from purple potatoes and taro. Not too sweet, and everyone who sees this photo will be all WTF?!?!



Moena Cafe has another nice locomoco. They are opening in Japan sometime in 2015. Enjoy. Get it with their fried rice, though I could never stomach something like this before noon.





A friend recommended Boots & Kimo's on the Kailua side of the island. Many people said that you should expect a two hour wait for a table. Luckily we only had to wait about 15. I'd say it is definitely worth it for a 15 minute wait, but anything more than that would be a waste of your time.

The mac nut pancakes taste nice, though I couldn't eat more than a couple bites of the sweetness-saturated stack.



Side Street Inn was also recommended, but I couldn't fit it in. What's this? Rouge has a collaboration beer with them?



It was certainly a tasty brew, very oaty. I want one now.



What about your traditional Hawaiian fare? That plate lunch you've heard so much about. Actually, the only one that did it for me was at the Volcano House on the Big Island.

Kahlua pork, poi, poke, mac salad, and more. Good eating.



Green's and Vines serves up raw vegan food in Honolulu. Their presence at the KCC farmer's market convinced us to try the restaurant. Not just good, great. You can get a lunch course, with wine pairing, that was better than any quote unquote gourmet place I tried on the island.



You know I crushed some ramen. Agu Ramen Bistro was great! Kind of a Kumamoto style, everything about this bowl was Japanese. A quality slurp. Thanks for the recommendation Keizo.



And now the bad.



Leonard's malasadas are mega famous. I don't eat sweets, and when I do I feel like crap. This sugared doughnut made me feel like I just became a diabetic. I can see the appeal though. Fat people rejoice.

If you like Krispy Kreme, you will come here and be happy.





12th Ave Grill wins all kinds of awards, and on paper it looks absolutely amazing. But . . .



The kampachi crudo was so salty that I couldn't get anyone to take more than a bite. The smoke ahi bruschetta tasted like it came from a can. The vanilla and orange braised beef cheeks tasted like something I got at a neighborhood locomoco joint.

The cocktail list also looks amazing on paper, but was hella weak. They do a house-aged Manhattan style drink that is such a great idea. Mix a cocktail and age it for a month in your own oak barrel. But then they throw in some Chartreuse liquor that ruined any subtle flavors that might have been.

All this for only a hundred bucks or so a person.



Roy's. Yup, you have probably been, or are planning to go. Roy's is one of those gourmet spots that, because it is everyone's safe bet for fine dining, spreads like word-of-mouth wildfire. I kind of had opinions going in, and listening to people sing Roy's praise reminded me of the Zagat Guide commentary sketch on SNL. Remember that one?



But I held my tongue. My friend's were super psyched about going here, and it was their birthdays, and I made a rule not to be snooty about food unless I'm around food critics.



Right off the bat, this is fine dining for families. They even sat us in the birthday-boy-and-girl section, where kids under 10 outnumbered the adults. We immediately asked to be moved. We were then sat in the non-birthday-boy-and-girl section, where kids under 10 outnumbered the adults.

Why yes, I'll take the wine pairing with my course.

The food wasn't bad, not at all. It was all normal and tasty. Nothing memorable, though. Like I said, a safe bet. An overpriced safe bet if you are keeping track of your dollars.



I'd put it in the same camp as The Cheesecake Factory.



American shaved ice is super weak compared to Japanese shaved ice. Even when made by a Japanese guy. But it is only $2.50, so you might as well grab one.



Ono Hawaiian Foods has a perpetual line to try their traditional plate meal.



But it wasn't really worth it for me.



Lucky Belly was some of the worst ramen I've had in years. Not even at the meh level, this bowl was a hot mess of junk. Located in the hipster gentrified section of China town, I was the only dude without facial hair. The ramen is served in comically large bowls, which does nothing for the flavor except prevent you from enjoying it. Which is a moot point because the soup and noodles were garbage.

The shop has amazing design, and the sake list was impressive, but that ramen . . . bleh!



And the crazy, uneaten, ugly side of Hawaiian food.



They stole this idea and marketed it as if it was their own. Internet searches reveal potential pending lawsuits. Whatever your opinion on the Ramen Burger is, you shouldn't eat this one.



But in the end, probably the best thing I ate this trip was some avocado, fresh off the tree, and a large helping of mango-habanero poke from Suisan fish market.